Three hours west of Marrakech, Essaouira is what happens when a fortified 18th-century Portuguese port becomes a surf town and never quite changes its mind. Ramparts, seagulls, blue fishing boats, and the best grilled sardines of your life.
The Alizés wind blows nine months a year — paradise for kitesurfers, brutal for sunbathers. Time your trip right (September–October or April–May) and you get the coast at its softest: warm, breezy, alive with Gnawa music.